New Direction: Vintage Couture Gowns

When I first started out after my course at the Melbourne School of Fashion, I made quite a lot of wedding dresses for private clients.

It was such a huge learning curve.  Every client & dress was different. 

From a Frost Green Medieval Velvet gown to Gothic Revival to great big beaded meringues & restyling Mum's 1960's dress.


With each new gown I learned so much about pattern making, fabric suitability, fixed quotes & hand embellishing.
From there I went to work at Adele Chapeaux in Toorak for a couple of years, before heading back to uni to study costume design.

Along the way I have continued to make a select number of wedding & evening gowns, via word of mouth, but it seems like time to start creating couture gowns in earnest again.

In 16 years of costume making I have amassed a vast collection of vintage patterns dating back to the 1920's through to the 1960's &  since the Vintage clothing revival does not look as if it is slowing down I have decided to start recreating some of those gorgeous designs for modern fashionistas who long for a taste of yesteryear.






So without further ado, Empireroom Vintage Couture is open for business.
Make an appointment for a design consultation today & let us create the Vintage gown of your dreams.

Come & visit me at Empire Room

Who uses veils anyway?

Well, I'm hoping the answer is brides because this week I have been making veils & other delicious headpieces & millinery for the Complete Weddings Hollywood Glamour shoot.

It was like L'oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival all over again, except everything I made had to be different & from beautiful materials, as this was the real deal, not just a walk down the catwalk.

After a whirlwind trip to Clegs & Maria's Beads (formerly Maria George ), I spent Monday at school in Wizard of Oz land. It's really coming together beautifully, but it's so soon!

The rest of the week was spent with my head down in my studio designing & creating lovely headwear for the shoot on Thursday. It was at the Italianate Villa Quat Quatta in Ripponlea.

So here are my beauties.

And better yet most are available in my Etsy store, made to order in just a couple of weeks.

Adelaide Blusher with Diamante comb

 Minnie Silk Organza Headband

 One of a kind Juliette Vintage Beaded lace Fascinator

Sylvia Metallic Lace Bandeau

I cannot wait to see the results in the magazine come October.

And what's more, they asked to keep everything until after their shoot in Daylesford next week.

Then I have some more pieces to put together for the Prima Ballerina shoot mid June.

They are all designed, so I'll worry about making them next week.

Some selfish Vintage sewing for me.

After what seems an eternity of shows, jobs & sewing for everyone else, I decided it was time to have a day to sew for me.

Not for Beauty & the Beast: my latest show. Not for Alex Perry; dress design legend. Not for the kids ballet & band uniforms. Not for any styling jobs. It was time to use some stash fabric & break out some vintage patterns, just for me.

So yesterday, after an early trip to get fabric for Bride & Prejudice, my August production, I came home & made a blouse & pair of high waisted jeans.

I had already trialled the jeans pattern with some linen some time ago & found I needed to lower the waist about 4cm, lose the cuff & make the darts a bit bigger, as I am quite petite.

I used denim with a slight stretch that I was given about 10 years ago by the Tsubi guys(now Ksubi).
I also moved the zip opening from the front to the side seam. I didn't feel like fussing with a fly front in stretch fabric & I much prefer a side zip in high waist pants.

They are so comfortable. 

The blouse was made with some beautiful self printed voile I picked up in Paris last year. 

3m for 10euro. Bargain! 

So soft & sheer, an appropriate undergarment is a must.

I made View 1, but again, due to my petite size the 3/4 sleeve is neither wrist or 3/4 length so I rolled them for the picture. I might add a cuff to make them long or just tack in the roll, as I think it looks quite neat. Very Lauren Bacall.
I'm also thinking of extending the darts up to the bust point for a more fitted look.

I think the blouse will work better with a skirt, but they look ok together for this picture.

Vintage Bikini mark II

1950's beach babes

I've been researching Vintage swimwear a bit more & trying to find some examples of what I could try in cotton fabric. It seems like the high waist is still going to be popular in the coming year & I really like the idea of  recreating those no stretch styles of the 1950's & 60's. After all there are so many girls who go to the beach or pool to be seen in something fashionable & not swim. I guess I also want them to be functional.

My search came up with some fab screen sirens in publicity shoots, as well as great bathing beauties of the time

Betty Grable

Carol Landis: So in love with this set. I think I'll try it next.

Janet Leigh

Grace Kelly

Ava Gardner

Ruching & skirts are super cute & perfect for someone who might want to distract from a touch of cellulite.

The gorgeous Norma Jean aka Marilyn Monroe

I love the frilled trim & skirt on this early Marilyn Two Piece below

The redrafted top didn't quite work as planned with the straps, so back to the drawing board I went. I tried a couple of different styles and finally came up with one I was happy with. It has great shape & sufficient support for a 10D. 

Now I just have to work out how to grade the sizing for different cup sizes.

However I have discovered this amazing website called Pattern School, a fabulous resource for drafting & making all manner of leotards, swimwear & lingerie. I just have to sit down & wade through the formulas & diagrams.

The pants were less problematic with the insertion of three lycra panels, but I'm not sure about the V in the back. I'm still having my usual issues with getting my elastic inserted just right, but these don't look too bad & they are super comfy. I guess I should do a water test to see how they react when wet.

Excuse my lily white skin.

So the learning curve continues.